Medicine Man, Italy style

I returned to Rome, after my country work yesterday with itchy eyes, a sore throat and a cough which has been lingering. Maybe lugging the heavy marble rocks, and the frequent weeding took its toll, in spite of the lovely food and fresh air activities. As we only have a few days before we fly to France, I decided to get medical advice.

In most hospitals in Italy tourists can go to the outpatients and see a doctor free of charge. I walked down to an Ospedale in Trastevere at 8am, and found where to go. A woman got me to fill in a half page of info, then told me where to sit down and wait. There were lots of different uniformed types standing around looking glamorous, texting or drinking tiny coffees.

A young, good-looking guy came in and dropped his bag off, then popped outside for a cigarette. He was having an animated conversation on his mobile. I'd decided he was the doctor, as the staff seemed to defer to him. I couldn't get what his phone call was about, but I hoped it was something like:

"We must act quickly and help this tourist, her condition is deteriorating!  Pull out all the stops, spare no expense, so we can get her back to good health!"
But I suspect it was something more like this:
"Yes, Mama, I got here okay. I did have breakfast - it was a coffee. No thanks I will be warm enough,  I wore my jacket. No, of course I'm not smoking..."

I only had to wait 30 minutes; not bad apparently, even though I was the only one waiting. The smoker/doctor looked at my throat, took my temperature, listened to my chest and refused to give me antibiotics. His English was as bad as my Italian. Didn't seem to want to look at my eyes or ears. Then he prescribed three things which I went and collected, for about 30 euro. Some sort of fizzy sachet drink, a weird tasting throat spray and some eye drops.

I got home about 9am, and my daughter was very surprised to see me back so soon. She'd thought it would take me hours. The only problem was trying to translate the complicated looking instructions in Italian on the packets.

Feeling better already.

Lizzie 

Basilicata, Italy, Workaway 2

Our second Workaway has started, and we have settled into B&B Apricot:
http://www.apricotlucania.com

This region (Basilicata) is flanked on the north-east by Puglia, on the west by Campania, and on the south by Calabria. If you picture Italy as a boot, we are located on the instep, near the Ionian Sea.

In May, this area is warming up from its gentle winter. The earth is fertile in this valley and there are trees laden with ripening oranges and lemons. Our host Alessandra is clever, kind and interesting. She gives clear instructions and leaves us to get on with jobs like staining the outdoor furniture, trimming hedges, weeding, whitewashing and minor repairs. We are helping her get ready for the onslaught of summer visitors that come for the nice beach nearby  (Italian, mostly).

Our days are like this: we get up at 6.30am and make ourselves an orange juice. After breakfast, we start work at 8, making sure we are plastered in mozzie spray. It's beautiful here; surrounded by apricot orchards, old olive trees, gentle hills. There are dogs and cats playing around, and a big chicken coop in an old building with 3 hens and a rooster (that crows at 4.30 am!). At midday we pack up and go inside for lunch. Alessandra uses local ingredients, lots of vegetables. Every day there is something new to try, typical of this region. And fresh bread and red wine.
 
After a couple of hours rest we usually go for a walk, in order to work up an appetite for dinner, and to explore. Policoro is 5kms away, not very pretty, but there is a great museum on the way, and a good gelato shop.

This area has Greek connections. In about 400BC it was populated by Trojan refugees, then more Greek settlements were established in the south (including Paestum,  Naples and Bari). They were overrun by the Lucanians,  then the Roman culture sort of absorbed them. Basilicata was called Lucania until about 11 AD. Then I think it was named after a Byzantine emperor, called Basileus. Funny that, I thought it was something to do with the herb!

One of the best parts for me, each evening, is the conversations at dinner time. We practise our Italian, and hear stories about the family, the apricot business, local legends and history - and recipes, of course. Tonight we're having some sort of potato-based focaccia bread.

Lizzie

Italy, again...

It's 20 years since I first visited Italy; our kids were 12, 9 and 6 years old.

My parents had emigrated from the South, to NZ, and we were keen to see what they'd chosen to leave behind, and how it had changed since their childhoods. It was fun discovering it with our own children, back in the nineties.

So, here we are again, many visits later, but planning to stay a lot longer this time. We are starting off with a quick visit to our daughter Maria's home in Rome. This will be our base between Workaway stints. My parents have passed away now, but our first two-week job is in the Basilicata region, where my Dad was born. I've been trying to brush up my Italian on Duolingo - got up to 45% so far. Now it's time for the immersion test.

With her husband Eugene, Maria runs a business called Creative English
They have 2 beautiful sons. This whole blog is really just an excuse for a proud nonno to put these photos up:

Ciao,
Lizzie's Bloke
(guest blogger)

Survived our Aussie Workaway

Mario the handyman

Wow, that was a bit crazy and sort of rewarding. We got into the lives of a country-town Aussie family, and found out more about permaculture. Recycling everything can be kind of messy. And, turtles don't like it when you accidentally drop their worm food down the back of the tank. Out of reach. Luckily no creatures died on our watch. The enormous rottweiler/doberman type "puppy" allegedly just wanted to play with me. Like a cat plays with a mouse... He liked to rest his paws on my shoulders, while I wasn't scared.

I put together a little marketing plan for them, Bissys Cafe, and helped set up a venue centre and shop next to the main cafe room, for new and recycled goods. Lots of interesting stuff revolves around their family cafe business; they are establishing an eco retreat as well.

Bissys Emporium 

Wide streets, Autumn colours

Orange area (popn about 60,000) is a well heeled town, named after William of Orange, who got his name from Orange, in Provence, France. First there were the Wiradjuri land owners, then a convict settlement, then goldfields, (many still operating), now it's tourism. It's beautiful in Autumn, with the wide streets, substantial brick buildings and lots of food/wine businesses. A cross between Ashburton and Nelson, for the Kiwis out there. We made use of the good pool, library and gallery facilities and met some really friendly locals.


Overall, it was fun working together. Its a challenge mucking in and being helpful to strangers, understanding the rules, outside our comfort zones. We have a different perspective now about rural Australia, and how people make a living from this big empty (in the middle) sort of land. We still both hate the raucous cries of the Aussie birds!

Back to Sydney for a few days, then we have our next Workaway coming up in May, in Italy.

Lizzie

Orange Segment, NSW: our 1st Workaway.

We got the bus, then the train, then a bus to Orange. It's a 6 hour trip inland. Felt a bit apprehensive, but it helped that the host, Fiona met us at the station. The job for the next 2 weeks is to help the family business with marketing and general maintenance.
We eat with the family each night, they have 8 children, but only 3 at home now.

Our accommodation is in a separate unit, and there's a couple of young women from France staying in the next bedroom for a few days, who have just been to NZ.
First day was interesting, traipsing round the 2 properties feeding the chooks, dogs, a gallah, rabbits, turtles, ducks and quails. We gathered some eggs and checked out the busy cafe. We work from about 8am to 1pm each day, then we go exploring. More about the town next time. All this fresh air and exercise is exhausting! 😴

Lizzie

Sydney Snuggles

I love a drizzly day in Sydney, perfect for reconnecting with family and our 4 year old grandchildren in particular. The twins.

And we need to chill and readjust with all the changes. Sold the car, left the jobs, rented out the apartment etc.

We enjoyed some great farewells with friends before we left. By the time we got on the plane we were knackered from too many big nights out.

So, back to the twins. Adorable chatterboxes; they love stories - both telling them, and listening to them. Mars has a ukulele,  which he strums while he talks. And talks... I let him help me choose the special effects for these photos.

Lizzie 

Leaving Home, New Zealand

We returned to our home in Nelson for a few days to check things before we go overseas. Our tenants for the last 6 months left things very clean and tidy, so we got stuck into the garden and cut back some of the bigger trees that had a growth spurt over the Summer.

I arranged a couple of visitors for the period we are away, using LoveHomeSwap. We really do love this home swap thing; some nice couples and families have stayed at our place, in return for free stays of our own in Oz and Spain.  

Some friends stopped by for a catch up, and as we gazed out at the big sky view across the bay, we reassured ourselves that it will all still be here to enjoy when we return. 

We feasted on figs, and crumpets drizzled with local manuka honey tonight, then polished off the last of the gin, with tonic, and juice from our lemon tree.

Feel ready to launch now. After all, leaving home for an adventure or two only makes you appreciate it more...

Lizzie 

10 Steps to Workaway

Friends have been asking how we got started. It took a bit of time and research. Workaway seemed to offer thousands of hosts, and different jobs and categories. Here's the first 10 steps we've taken...

1. Join the website. Even if you never actually travel, it can serve as a sort of 'travel porn',  where you can fantasize about lots of different countries and work experiences. It costs  $US29  to join as a single and $US38 to join as a couple: https://www.workaway.info

2. Leave your job. Why work for money when you can work in exchange for things like places to stay and things to eat? Travel can be soulless and expensive when you are just hanging out on the edges, observing other people's lives and cultures. This way you can wade in and be a part of something.

3. Write a profile. Honest and interesting, saying what you can do with some recent images of yourself looking useful. For example, painting a fence, playing your flute, pruning trees, or taking part in a meeting.

4. Start checking out possible 'hosts'. Bear the distances between jobs in mind, and the logistics of travel between them. You don't want to waste time and money zigzagging backwards and forwards between Spain and Italy, for instance.

5. Read their reviews and comments. If every second guest comments on the remote location and hard work, avoid. If a host comments about too many people leaving after only a few days, don't go there.

6. Check the timing. The site listings show which months help is needed. Also, check out what the accommodation is - it can range from a separate chalet, to a caravan, to a room in a family home, or the west wing of a castle!

7. Write your prospects a short friendly message offering your help and saying what might be relevant to their situation. If it's an animal refuge, don't bother saying you are a raging carnivore and have a fear of dogs! Just offer 1-2 weeks; if it works out well, you might be asked to stay on.

8. Sit back for a month or two and wait for the offers to come in. We sent 30 messages, and got about 20 replies, and inquiries from people who just saw our listing. It takes time to get the dates confirmed. We have nailed 7 bookings over 6 months, and we have another 7 on the reserve list, in case we have a cancellation. 

9. Choose some good sensible work clothing if you are going for physical work. The majority seem to need gardening. I want to look like I've come to help, not like a tourist.

10. Start on some prep. We are going to be at an organic orchard business, so I'm reading up about biodiversity. We are making an effort to get fitter too, running round the local park. Most of the hosts ask for about 25 hours labour per week. I want some energy left, after the olive or grape harvests, to go out and explore. 

Lizzie