Friday 10 February 2017

Vienna for Beginners

Neither of us have been to Vienna before, but there's great accommodation and flight deals at this time of year, so we thought we'd go for a week.

It's been about 0-4 degrees C most days. The CAT train takes you from the airport to the city in only 16 minutes. Easy walking along wide footpaths, cleared of snow, great signage and well heated interesting cafes.


Observations?

1. Best cappuccinos ever. They call it 'melange' and I think they invented it.

2. Loved the extensive gardens and views from the Schonbrunn Palace. We spent most of a sunny Sunday walking the long avenues through the woods.

3. Inexpensive stuff can be better than paid tourist experiences. For example, we were underwhelmed by the MUMOK, contemporary art museum. Depressed by the overly 'architected' grey building. And the 3 floors dedicated to that anti-establishment Eastern European guy, Julius Koller. It all just confused me, for 11 euro. Whereas the free guided tour of the Rathaus (an easy name to remember) was beautiful and interesting. It's the old city town hall, with huge chandeliers.


We bought a bag of freshly made falafel, 20 for only 2 euros, at the Nachtmarkt on the way home.

4. The public transport is easy, efficient and clean. Only a couple of euros for tram/underground/bus tickets, one price for all destinations. Ideal for beginners.

5. The State Opera house performances are affordable if you are prepared to do the standing thing for 3 euro tickets. Our back row definitely had a bit of humming and a gentle sway going on to the big chorus number 'Va pensiero' (Nambucco). It was a drab looking but great sounding production, with excellent chorus and orchestra. We witnessed an unforgettable performance from Leo Nucci; an Italian baritone who at 74 years old can still hold the stage.

Ah Vienna... Europe's middle, capital of cakes and too much cream, lots of gold stuff, Gustav Klimt, big name composers, obvious wealth and successful opera. Sadly, part of the history of the place, impossible to forget, is the decimation of the Jewish population during Hitler's time.

https://www.ushmm.org/wlc/en/article.php?ModuleId=10005447

Vienna is a complex and fascinating place; if you are ever in Europe, it deserves at least a week.

Lizzie